More Frequently Asked Questions


What is the difference between a Backyard Breeder & a Puppy Mill?

The term "backyard breeder" has nothing to do with backyards.

It is just a name for careless, clueless and uncaring (money hungry) people

that are (what I call) ‘wanna be’ breeders.

They generally have one Sire, and one or two Dams.

This would be someone without the knowledge or concern to breed for

temperament or breed standard. They do not care about the pups or where the pups go,

they do not care if this home is a permanent home or not.

They just want to make a few extra ‘bucks’ on the side.

Again, watch what registration they use.


As for Puppy Mills - A legal definition for the term "puppy mill" was established in Avenson v. Zegart in 1984:

"a dog breeding operation in which the health of the dogs is disregarded in order to

maintain a low overhead and maximize profits."


These VILE & DISPICABLE people are ONLY interested in one thing;


To that end, they usually acquire a number of dogs (30 or more), fill an old trailer or barn with wire cages,

and start breeding.

They will cram as many dogs as they can into one cage, and the cages will be stacked one on top

of the other as high as they can reach.

The cages are rarely if ever cleaned out, and the waste from the upper level cages is allowed to

drip down onto the dogs below.

Food and water is supplied at the minimum level required for survival, as

it cuts into their profit margin.

Even during pregnancy and labor, the females receive no extra food or care.

You can probably imagine the outcome.

Both Backyard breeders and Puppy millers will give Full registration to just anyone without the thought to

the consequences or damage to the breed that will undoubtedly occur.


Missouri, Pennsylvania, North Carolina, Kansas, South Carolina, Nebraska, Iowa, Arkansas, Oklahoma, Virginia.

PLEASE DO NOT SUPPORT THESE PEOPLE or YOU will become part of the problem!!

You should avoid both Backyard Breeders & Puppy Mills at all cost!

While there are definitely good and proper breeders in the above states, please do your due diligence!

When researching for a reputable breeder, remember, the terms Puppy Mill & Back-Yard-Breeder are thrown out there ALL the time by uneducated people and animal activists…...especially when these people are denied a pup from that breeder (for whatever reason). It’s a fact that we, as human beings, get ‘pissed’ when we are rejected. A responsible breeder will deny a pup to those they do not feel are really for the challenge (a Puppy Mill or Back-Yard-Breeder will not) and thus, those rejected will say all sorts of bad things about the breeder. Take the time to get to know the breeder before believing ANYTHING you read on the internet or listening to hear-say from these people…..and for goodness sake, quit believing everything you read on the internet!


When do puppies open their eyes?

Puppies usually open their eyes at 9 to 14 days of age.

Almost all pups are born with Blue eyes.

At around 4 - 6 weeks I can tell you what I think the eye color will remain.


Will my puppy’s eyes stay Blue/Green/Grey/Brown?

Again, most times a puppies eyes will be the same when he/she comes home to you (at 7 to 8 weeks old) however, sometimes a pups eyes can change up to the first year or more.


When should I have my puppy spayed or neutered?

I highly suggest having your puppy spayed or neutered at 5 – 7 months of age.



What will I need when I bring my new puppy home?

A Great Veterinarian (that you TRUST)!

Grade ‘A’ premium puppy food, as mentioned below.

Food & Water dishes

Collar, Harness (your pup will come home with a preliminary collar to get him/her used to the feeling of having one on)  & leash


Puppy potty training pads

(I use washable, waterproof pads. Available at any retail store in the infant department , waterproof crib pads 27”x36”. Two for about $10 .00)

I recommend having a ton of really hard rubber chewies (KongsTM).

(The cute squeaky toys will probably last a minute or two, TOPS!)

A good instructional book on raising a Siberian Husky

(I recommend “Siberian Huskies for Dummies”)

Also if you plan on crate training your puppy, start from day one.

Otherwise you will be sleeping and sharing your bed for the life of your Sibe

(my preference….lol, but totally up to you).

Also see the ‘Puppy Preparation’ page


What, in your expert opinion, would be the best advice you could give to

a new Siberian Husky owner?


The best advice I could give is to NOT ‘Bargain’ hunt for a ‘cheap’ Siberian Husky puppy.

A cheap puppy means cheap puppy care (and most likely cheap adult care as well),

these pups are most times way more expensive than pups acquired from an

ethical & responsible breeder in the long run!

Also, do not just assume that because a puppy has ‘Pedigree Papers’ that he/she is a

quality Siberian Husky….it ONLY means that the parents were pedigree registered.

Remember that clearances on the parents (hips/thyroid/eyes) does NOT guarantee

that the pups will be free of these problems.

You should always ask if any such problems have occurred in previous pups from each pairing.

Use your intuition! If you do not trust the breeder, go away from them

quickly and do more research…I believe that a persons intuition is more

accurate than anything any breeder will tell you!

Finally, do not expect that a responsible breeder will just let you acquire one of their

pups just because you say you want one. There is much more to it than that… is not that simple!

If it is/or was that simple for you, you have just been taken,

you just purchased a puppy from either a backyard breeder or a puppy mill.


What kind of training do you suggest?

To all of my new friends, both new Sibe owners as well as veteran Sibe owners, I recommend taking basic then advanced puppy classes. Obedience classes are more for the human than the puppy. The instructors will teach you how to interact with your puppy and he/she with you on a positive note and also teach you how to be ‘Alpha’. With this breed you MUST be ‘Alpha’ and you must always be in charge. No exceptions!


How long do you keep your puppies before they go to their new “Forever Homes”?

I keep the pups until they are 7 weeks old.

This way all their preliminary shots are current and they have had ample time to be socialized.

For special circumstances I will hold pups longer if the circumstances are reasonable. 

I understand getting fencing in and other things may hold you off a couple of days/weeks. 

**NOTE: There is a $10.00 per day fee for keeping the pups past their normal scheduled pick-up date.


Why Can’t I pick up my puppy earlier?

You need to keep your puppy with his/her littermates as long as possible to ensure that your puppy will have

adequate time to socialize as well as to make sure that the first puppy shots will be sufficient to get your puppy

thru the first few days home with you (before you take him/her to the vet). 

Your puppy’s first 7 - 8 weeks with his/her littermates & Momma are crucial to his/her development.


How do I find a good brand of dog food?

Once the Mommies start to wean their puppies, the pups are introduced to

‘IAMS’ canned puppy food, Lamb and Rice.

They are then slowly graduated to dry kibble:

Diamond Naturals - Lamb & RicePuppy Kibble

When you bring your puppy home, I suggest that any premium dry (canned puppy food will not be needed) puppy food you chose have as the first 3 ingredients Meat (chicken, beef, lamb….etc.) & meat by-products.

You will be given an adequate amount of kibble to re-introduce your pup to his/her ‘new’ kibble,

Please do this transition SLOWLY…..otherwise you will have a mess to have to deal with.

By the 7th to 9th month of age you will want to change to an adult Grade ‘A’ Dog food.

Only you (with advice from your vet) will know when it’s time to change from puppy food to adult food.


How much are deposits?

Deposits are $200.00 and are NON-REFUNDABLE!

Please see the ‘Puppy Pricing’ page for more in-depth information.


What forms of payment do you accept?

I accept Postal Money Orders ONLY for the initial deposit.

Then, if you wish, I can set you up with Postal Money

Order or Cash installments for the balance.

Either way you want to continue is fine with me.

I do NOT accept Personal Checks, Cashier Checks or Wire Transfers.






If you have a question you would like to see answered here

or have a suggestion of a question that should be answered here,

just email it to me.




This Site is dedicated to TRUE Siberian Husky lovers!